2015 Birgit Eichinger, Gruner Veltliner, Gaisberg Reserve “Erste Lage” Kamptal Austria
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Understanding this wine takes a few pointers… but basically – this is a best of class version from a top producer and a great vintage. Price value are everything and this delivers at every level.
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Definition of Terms
Brand: Birgit Eichinger
Grape: Gruner Veltliner
Place: Kamptal, Austria (Gaisberg is the vineyard)
About the quality: What is an Erste Lage? (see below)
Grape: Gruner Veltliner
Place: Kamptal, Austria (Gaisberg is the vineyard)
About the quality: What is an Erste Lage? (see below)
First, about the brand
(Credit weingut-eichinger.at)
The winery was founded in 1992 by Birgit Eichinger and her husband Christian. She started out with 3.5 hectares of vineyards from her parents' vineyard holdings. Over time the vineyard area was expanded so that today fruit is sourced from more than 9 hectares in the best sites of Strass; Heiligenstein on volcanic rock, one of the great terroris of Austria for Riesling; Lamm, at the base of Heiligenstein where volcanic soil mixes with Loess, and which is considered the best site in the Kamptal for Gruner Veltliner; Gaisberg a high hill of Urgestein standing alone equally superb for both Gruner Veltliner and then at higher altitude, Reisling; Wechselberg, a mix of Urgestein and Loess is perfect for Gruner; and Loess is the soil for the Hasel parcels. Vom Berg is a selction of younger vines from Heiligenstien and Gaisberg. Purity, minerality, and length make up the style of all these wines.
About the grape: Gruner Veltliner
(Credit WineSearcher.com)
photo credit: wineandabout.com
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Gruner Veltliner Wine - Grüner Veltliner is the signature grape of Austria, and by far the nation's most widely planted wine grape. As Austria battles its way back to stardom on the international wine market, crisp, spicy Grüner Veltliner has been its flagship wine. The finest Austrian expressions come from vineyards above the Danube River, in Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.
Classic Grüner Veltliner wines show citrus aromas (lemon peel and grapefruit) complemented by stone fruit and fresh vegetal notes and the variety's trademark hint of white pepper. But within this there are two key styles of Grüner Veltliner wine. The first – lighter, fresher and focused on minerality and citrus character – is typical of Weinviertel. The wine often bottled with a slight spritz, to lift the wine and emphasize its fresh, fruity notes. |
The second style – spicier, weightier and more complex – is embodied by the top wines from the warmer Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal regions. These wines are richly textured and well structured, and require several years in bottle before reaching developed maturity. While most wines from this grape variety are fermented and aged in stainless steel or large old oak casks, some modern-styled weightier examples might be made using smaller new oak barrels. With time they soften and take in honeyed, marmalade-like characteristics that match their attractive, deep golden hue. Some writers have noted similarities with mature white Burgundy.
The variety's name might be hard to pronounce for the uninitiated, but Austria's incisive marketeers have turned this to their advantage, dubbing the variety "Gru-Ve" and even "Groovy". Grüner means "green", which neatly reflects both the variety's yellow-green berries and the fresh green-pepper character that typifies Grüner Veltliner wine. Veltliner – a name shared by several European grape varieties (notably Roter Veltliner) – is thought to be a reference to the varieties' possible origins in Valtellina.
Grüner Veltliner is grown extensively in almost every Austrian wine region, but the late-ripening variety has not proved successful in the cooler, wetter climes of neighboring Germany, or anywhere else in northern Europe. It is also widely cultivated in Slovenia and the Czech Republic, and to a lesser extent in northern Italy, New Zealand, Australia and the United States.
Grüner Veltliner wines pair well with a wide range of foods, with the fresher styles well suited to many salad leaves and vegetables, as well as being mouthwatering aperitifs. The bigger wines combine naturally high acidity and full-bodied texture making them a versatile and exotic alternative to Chardonnay.
The variety's name might be hard to pronounce for the uninitiated, but Austria's incisive marketeers have turned this to their advantage, dubbing the variety "Gru-Ve" and even "Groovy". Grüner means "green", which neatly reflects both the variety's yellow-green berries and the fresh green-pepper character that typifies Grüner Veltliner wine. Veltliner – a name shared by several European grape varieties (notably Roter Veltliner) – is thought to be a reference to the varieties' possible origins in Valtellina.
Grüner Veltliner is grown extensively in almost every Austrian wine region, but the late-ripening variety has not proved successful in the cooler, wetter climes of neighboring Germany, or anywhere else in northern Europe. It is also widely cultivated in Slovenia and the Czech Republic, and to a lesser extent in northern Italy, New Zealand, Australia and the United States.
Grüner Veltliner wines pair well with a wide range of foods, with the fresher styles well suited to many salad leaves and vegetables, as well as being mouthwatering aperitifs. The bigger wines combine naturally high acidity and full-bodied texture making them a versatile and exotic alternative to Chardonnay.
About Erste-Lage
(Credit Austrian Wine USA)
Austrian Wine is best explained by the Austrian’s on their website:
https://austrianwineusa.com/2010/11/03/the-traditional-wines-of-austria-erste-lage/
“In May 2010, after nearly 20 years of consideration, the 23 members panel of the Association of the Traditional Vineyards of Austria (Traditionsweingüter Österreich) incorporated 52 vineyards from the 23 members within the Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram and Traisental as Erste Lage or First Growth vineyards.
Austria’s incorporation of DAC law is strongly supported by the association, but it concerned the group that there was no specific recognition of single vineyards as there is in other countries. Ultimately, this classification is aimed at protecting the quality of the grapes while simultaneously helping Austrian wine consumers to recognize exceptional quality. Their philosophy, “Everyone knows that you can make a great wine only out of a great vineyard.”
Because of DAC regulation, only Riesling and Gruener Veltliner wines are allowed to carry the Erste Lage symbol (see photo.) The 2010 vintage will be the first to carry this designation.
Please visit this article on their website and see a list of the vineyards that carry Erste Lage designation.
https://austrianwineusa.com/2010/11/03/the-traditional-wines-of-austria-erste-lage/
“In May 2010, after nearly 20 years of consideration, the 23 members panel of the Association of the Traditional Vineyards of Austria (Traditionsweingüter Österreich) incorporated 52 vineyards from the 23 members within the Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram and Traisental as Erste Lage or First Growth vineyards.
Austria’s incorporation of DAC law is strongly supported by the association, but it concerned the group that there was no specific recognition of single vineyards as there is in other countries. Ultimately, this classification is aimed at protecting the quality of the grapes while simultaneously helping Austrian wine consumers to recognize exceptional quality. Their philosophy, “Everyone knows that you can make a great wine only out of a great vineyard.”
Because of DAC regulation, only Riesling and Gruener Veltliner wines are allowed to carry the Erste Lage symbol (see photo.) The 2010 vintage will be the first to carry this designation.
Please visit this article on their website and see a list of the vineyards that carry Erste Lage designation.
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About the place: Gaisberg, Kamptal, AustriaGaisberg
The Gaisberg is an optical extension of the Langenloiser Heiligenstein and is considered one of the best sites of the entire region. It’s crystalline properties from the Bohemian Massif forms the south-easterly foothill of the Manhartsberg. What differentiates this site to the rest is it’s transitional horizon and southernly exposure – as from this point eastwards and southwards a completely different climatic and geological conditions. The lower eastern area with sandy loess deposits is better suited to the Grüner Veltliner. |
Kamptal Wine
(Credit to Winesearcher)
Kamptal is a small, increasingly prestigious wine district located 35 miles (55km) northwest of Vienna, northern Austria. From steep, sunbaked, sparsely-soiled terraces overlooking the river Kamp, its vineyards produce some of the world's very finest white wines: rich, spicy Gruner Veltliner and dry, flinty Riesling. A growing handful of top-quality dry reds are also made there, from Austria's signature red-wine variety, Zweigelt.
Based around the town of Langenlois, Kamptal is bisected by the southward-flowing Kamp, in the final miles before it flows into the Danube. The vineyards lie mostly on south-facing terraces above the river and on the lower-lying ground in the south closer to where the Kamp meets the Danube.
Based around the town of Langenlois, Kamptal is bisected by the southward-flowing Kamp, in the final miles before it flows into the Danube. The vineyards lie mostly on south-facing terraces above the river and on the lower-lying ground in the south closer to where the Kamp meets the Danube.
(photo credit: austrianwine.com)
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Kamptal(credit to winesearcher.com)
Like its southern neighbors Wachau and Kremstal, Kamptal takes climatic influence from both the warm Pannonian Plain to the east and the cool Waldviertel forests to the west. A vital quality of the mesoclimate here is the marked diurnal temperature variation; warm grape-ripening days are followed by cold, acidity-retaining nights.
The steep terraces in the north of Kamptal, with their thin layers of topsoil, are particularly well suited to Riesling. The vines are forced to dig deep into the bedrock for nutrients and stability, resulting in stronger plants and lower yields. Nowhere are the benefits of this clearer than in the famous terraced Heiligenstein vineyard near the town of Zobing. Heiligenstein Riesling is some of Austria's very finest. Gruner Veltliner seems to perform better in lower-lying areas, where the deeper soils (mostly clay and loess) contribute to richer, highly concentrated wines. |
In 2008, Kamptal received a DAC classification for its higher-quality Riesling and Gruner Veltliner wines. The DAC has two sub-categories covering subtly distinct wine styles: Classic, for lighter, fresher wines, and Reserve for fuller-bodied wines with greater concentration and at least 13% alcohol. However, as the DAC system is relatively new, plenty of other grape varieties contribute to the region's wine output, from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay.
That said, Riesling and Gruner Veltliner are Kamptal's most prestigious varieties. Top Kamptal wines include Weingut Hirsch's "Zobinger Gaisberg" Riesling, Fred Loimer's "Lois" Gruner Veltliner and "In Gumpoldkirchen" blend, and the Willi Bundlmayer Gruner Veltliner "Kamptaler Terrassen". As imposing as the historic Schloss (castle) they come from are Schloss Gobelsburg's "Lamm" and "Steinsetz" Reserve Gruner Veltliners and its "Gobelsburger" Gruner Veltliner and Riesling.
Kamptal is an important center of Austrian wine tourism. Its main town, Langenlois, is home to the Loisium – a futuristic visitor center which leads down to a labyrinth of centuries-old, underground wine cellars.
That said, Riesling and Gruner Veltliner are Kamptal's most prestigious varieties. Top Kamptal wines include Weingut Hirsch's "Zobinger Gaisberg" Riesling, Fred Loimer's "Lois" Gruner Veltliner and "In Gumpoldkirchen" blend, and the Willi Bundlmayer Gruner Veltliner "Kamptaler Terrassen". As imposing as the historic Schloss (castle) they come from are Schloss Gobelsburg's "Lamm" and "Steinsetz" Reserve Gruner Veltliners and its "Gobelsburger" Gruner Veltliner and Riesling.
Kamptal is an important center of Austrian wine tourism. Its main town, Langenlois, is home to the Loisium – a futuristic visitor center which leads down to a labyrinth of centuries-old, underground wine cellars.