Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany, 2015
Theo Haart was chosen Winemaker of the Year in 2007 by the Gault-Millau/German Wine Guide. The Haart family has had a presence in the vineyards of Piesport dating back to 1337. It is the oldest winegrowing family in the important wine growing village of Piesport and today hands down its best wine estate. A large Roman (3rd century) wine press and precious Diatretglas (ornate Roman drinking vessel) unearthed at the foot of the Goldtröpfchen vineyard adjacent to the Haart estate bear witness to the importance and quality of Piesport’s vineyards. When the Roman poet Ausonius first reached Piesport he described the Mosel loop associated with Piesport as a natural, vine-clad, steep amphitheater open to the South. The eastern and western fringes of hillside protect the center from the cool winds as does the forest atop the vineyards. The deep clayish slate soil provides sufficient moisture even during a dry hot summer; they are vineyards blessed with these gifts of nature.
Theo’s winemaking philosophy has nothing to do with trends or fashion. He uses mostly indigenous yeast to ferment his Rieslings. He limits yields to less than 50 hl/ha, below the norm of most Mosel estates and usually harvests 14 days later than his colleagues. Two vineyards are classified for making Grand Cru wines: Piesporter Goldtröpfchen – deep, soft clayish slate – yields a wealth of aromas from cassis to peach and exotic fruits, it is always exceedingly rich on the palate. Wintricher Ohligsberg – hard blue-gray slate with quartzite layers and a great quantity of rocks and gravel – wines are more spicy, racy and elegant. Note: Ohligsberg was formerly wholly owned by the von Schorlemers. Other superb holdings are all in Piesport-Kreutzwingert (monopole), Domherr and Gräfenberg. The Reinhold Haart estate produces 4,000 cs and is a member of the VDP.